Sunrise over Cordes

The morning before leaving Cordes-sur-Ciel, I headed out in the dark to walk to the hill beyond the village and take one final shot.

While I would have liked to see the hill encircled with mist, as often happens – not today. My effort was rewarded with a beautiful sunrise that streaked across the sky and vanished within moments.

It was also good to have a thorough last look around at the outlying landscape and get a sense of the setting of the rural properties and other details which may, or may not, be useful in the future.

Bag packed – time to go.

Walking the laneways

I’m nearing the end of my stay in Cordes-sur-Ciel and will be sorry to leave this beautiful region.

One of the activities I’ve really enjoyed every day is wandering around observing the types of trees and plants – where and how they grow.

It’s important to smell the air, feel the breeze and watch the sky. To somehow absorb it all up without any real sense of how it will be used in the writing – just knowing those details are there to fall back on.

Empty Nests

A few people I’ve talked to have mentioned the incredible number of houses sitting empty in France – a stunning 2.8 million!

Apparently one of the reasons is inheritance laws (recently revised) which meant that offspring automatically inherited property – not easy to sell in France. Plus an added complication of a residence tax which means leaving the property empty is more viable.

Since my main characters buy a house in France, property has become a subject of interest to me – as have the complexities (and nasty surprises) involved in renovating centuries old houses.

The house where I’m staying is 300 years old and was empty for two years before the current owners took over. It has been a real eye-opener to hear the renovation tales and gain an understanding of how these houses were constructed with stone, timber, and earth.

 

 

 

The Art of the Artisan

One of the reasons for coming to this region for my research was the proliferation of artisans, something I had decided would be part of the allure for my characters.

I had a wonderful experience yesterday in a little shop in Cordes that sells leather goods. I asked the owner if she had a small bag in the style of one of the purses she offered that had various pockets. She said no but if I gave her a few minutes she would make a strap for that purse!

She whipped out a soft piece of leather, a wicked looking pair of scissors and a special cutting tool and proceeded to cut the strap. Then onto the sewing machine and voila! Wonderful.

Tale of a Town

Originally built in 1222, Cordes-sur-Ciel looks like something out of a fairy-tale.

It was first constructed as a walled town (bastide) and later expanded, flowing down the hill and into the valley.

Cordes has experienced all the usual complications over the last 800 years including the plague and the Hundred Years War but in between times was very prosperous with cloth and leather industries. Later it was a centre for embroidery with over 300 embroiders working here.

In the 1940s, artists and artisans moved in and today more the fifty craftspeople work in the village – which is one of the features that attracts my characters to the town.

Opening Hours: France

If you’ve ever visited France (or Italy & Spain) you’ll be familiar with the capricious opening hours of shops, businesses and government offices which can drive visitors, expats –  and even the French themselves – mad.

Places can be shut for a variety of reasons, for example before 10am, between midday and 2pm or 4pm or because it’s Sunday/Monday/Tuesday or a weekday or perhaps it’s a weekend or even a particular month of the year.

You kind of get used to it although it never ceases to amuse me to see the French throw a practiced shoulder against a locked door cursing: ‘Merde! C’est fermé!’

In some ways, it’s this uncommercial approach that underpins the slower way of life here. An easy start to the day with a nice long break for lunch with the family.

It is, after all, a government and culture that puts the well-being of the people ahead of commercial imperatives. While this has its own set of problems, it’s hard to deny that everywhere in France you see people enjoying a beautiful quality of life. There is more to life than shopping, after all.

Cordes-sur-Ciel

Am now residing in Cordes-sur-Ciel which is an amazing 13th-century village that tumbles down a steep hill and appears ‘tied to the sky’.

Had a wonderful time exploring yesterday, at every turn is a stunning vista bright with autumn colour. It’s very quiet right now – I can imagine it’s absolutely packed in summer. It was once the home of Albert Camus, who am I to compete with his sentiments?

One travels over the years without quite knowing what one is searching for, wandering amid the clatter, caught up with desires or regrets, and one arrives unexpectedly in one from those two or three places which await each one of us in this world. The traveller who, from the terraces of Cordes, looks at the summer night sky, knows that he needs to travel no further, because the beauty here, day after day, will remove any loneliness. Albert Camus

 

À bientôt, Argentat.

Had such a wonderful time in Argentat, it was sad to leave this beautiful village and continue on my journey to Cordes-sur-Ciel by train.

I sang the praises of train travel in my French Perfumer blog and continue to be enamoured of it. It’s so simple (compared to flying or driving) and wonderful to see the French countryside on the way.

Yesterday travelling from Brive–la-Gaillarde (near Argentat) to Toulouse the track passes chestnut groves, apple and pear orchards as well as undulating landscapes of fields and woodlands and finally running alongside a picturesque canal.

There was a slight jolt at Toulouse station to see army patrols who looked far too young to be carrying machine guns at the ready.  But this is to be expected and not a part of everyday France.

The Gathering

My workshop today was for a local writers’ group who, I have to say, were all very interesting and talented. They’re obviously well-read and well-practised, as the standard of writing was diverse and quite exceptional across the board.

It was a privilege to have the opportunity to present some new ideas and enjoy a fun lunch – a feast fit for writers!

In preparation….

In my wanderings, I often seem to luck in with hosts who are incredible cooks – this trip is no exception.

In preparation for the writers’ workshop, my talented hostess, Fritha, was up half the night making the most glorious food for a lunch that would follow the writing session.

I came downstairs in the morning to find the dining room all prepared and the table beautifully laid for the writers’ feast.